CURRENT ALERTS
The Styx River route remains difficult and slow, use the Arahura route instead!
The Styx River route is now very difficult in its mid/lower reaches due to massive landslides forcing river crossings in very poor locations. Less experienced trampers should use the Arahura River route, Mudflats Hut / Lower Arahura Hut, to the Milltown Road.
Very experienced trampers could go via Mid Styx Hut and the roughly marked Tyndall Creek route back into the Styx River; further river crossings of the Styx should be chosen well, and the river must be low! This route can be slow-going, so pre-arranging public transport pickups probably should be avoided.
Note: the old route guide PDF is incorrect and should not be used.
Thieves breaking into vehicles
Thieves have been breaking into cars and motor-homes at various car-parks and some camp-sites along SH.73 on a regular basis (day & night). They have been stealing passports, credit cards, money, electronic devices and recreation equipment. Take your absolute valuables with you on the walks, and don't leave other valuable items in plain sight in your vehicle. Report any suspicious activity to Police '111', and note down registration plates of vehicles!
Flood bypass track not usable
The Waimakariri River has changed course upstream of the Anti Crow River junction. This has effectively cut-off the upstream entrance to a section of marked track here in flood or high water conditions. To bash past this section requires the crossing of two slippery waterfall faces just metres above the swift river. In low water conditions follow the riverbed crossing the river as required.
Clough cableway removed
The Clough Cableway across the White River (Carrington hut) has been removed. The White River will only be crossable in low river flows.
The Styx River route remains difficult and slow, use the Arahura route instead!
The Styx River route is now very difficult in its mid/lower reaches due to massive landslides forcing river crossings in very poor locations. Less experienced trampers should use the Arahura River route, Mudflats Hut / Lower Arahura Hut, to the Milltown Road.
Very experienced trampers could go via Mid Styx Hut and the roughly marked Tyndall Creek route back into the Styx River; further river crossings of the Styx should be chosen well, and the river must be low! This route can be slow-going, so pre-arranging public transport pickups probably should be avoided.
Note: the old route guide PDF is incorrect and should not be used.
Thieves breaking into vehicles
Thieves have been breaking into cars and motor-homes at various car-parks and some camp-sites along SH.73 on a regular basis (day & night). They have been stealing passports, credit cards, money, electronic devices and recreation equipment. Take your absolute valuables with you on the walks, and don't leave other valuable items in plain sight in your vehicle. Report any suspicious activity to Police '111', and note down registration plates of vehicles!
Flood bypass track not usable
The Waimakariri River has changed course upstream of the Anti Crow River junction. This has effectively cut-off the upstream entrance to a section of marked track here in flood or high water conditions. To bash past this section requires the crossing of two slippery waterfall faces just metres above the swift river. In low water conditions follow the riverbed crossing the river as required.
Clough cableway removed
The Clough Cableway across the White River (Carrington hut) has been removed. The White River will only be crossable in low river flows.
Arthur's Pass National Park - Three Pass Trip
Time: 4-5 days one way
Difficulty: Marked track, long unmarked route sections, river crossings, ice-field crossings
Huts: Anti-Crow Hut (6 bunks), Carrington Hut (36 bunks), Park Morpeth Hut (6 bunks), Harman Hut (6 bunks), Mudflats Hut (6 bunks), Lower Arahura Hut (6 bunks), Grassy Flat Hut (10 bunks), Mid-Styx Hut (4 bunks)
Features: Three passes and four river valleys and an alpine lake gives lots of variety on this classic tramp
Route Guides: Klondyke to Carrington Hut (1.4MB)
Three Pass Trip (1.7MB)
Location: The route described here starts at Carrington hut at the confluence of the Waimakariri and White Rivers in Arthur's Pass National Park, and exits at either the Arahura or Styx Rivers on the West Coast about 30km from Hokitika.
Difficulty: Marked track, long unmarked route sections, river crossings, ice-field crossings
Huts: Anti-Crow Hut (6 bunks), Carrington Hut (36 bunks), Park Morpeth Hut (6 bunks), Harman Hut (6 bunks), Mudflats Hut (6 bunks), Lower Arahura Hut (6 bunks), Grassy Flat Hut (10 bunks), Mid-Styx Hut (4 bunks)
Features: Three passes and four river valleys and an alpine lake gives lots of variety on this classic tramp
Route Guides: Klondyke to Carrington Hut (1.4MB)
Three Pass Trip (1.7MB)
Location: The route described here starts at Carrington hut at the confluence of the Waimakariri and White Rivers in Arthur's Pass National Park, and exits at either the Arahura or Styx Rivers on the West Coast about 30km from Hokitika.
Notes: In recent years there has been major changes to this route...
This route passes through extensive areas of active avalanche terrain in winter/spring. The terms "true-left & right" are used in this description, they refer to side of valley always looking downstream or down hill.
Klondyke Corner to Carrington Hut (4-6 hours one way)
Visit Carrington Hut Route
Carrington Hut – Park Morpeth Hut (9-10 hours one way)
From Carrington hut follow the signposted and marked route towards Harman Pass. After about 700m the track moves out onto the riverflats of the White River. Continue up river on the true-right. At some very large boulders in the river consider looking for a safe crossing to the true-left - you may need to explore the river for some distance to find a viable crossing (the Clough Cableway shown on some maps no longer exists!).
Once across the river continue upstream to the first of two channels of the Taipoiti River, follow this channel upstream (there is a large orange triangle on the true-right riverbank). If there is snow up the Taipoiti, the route will be difficult. During winter and spring, avalanches can funnel into the gorge over the cliffs. In early summer large, unstable ice sheets can block the central gorge area. Be aware that receding ice can leave large, dangerous, balancing boulders in the riverbed.
Climb and scramble up through the steep gorge, crossing from side to side, where necessary. At the top of the gorge, waterfalls tumble over impassable cliffs. Continue past these waterfalls. The poled route to Harman Pass starts here, beside a small stream.
Once out of the Taipoiti gorge you can see the main Taipoiti branches into two streams, each running down a deep gully. A well-worn cairned and poled trail crosses the true left branch relatively soon, the climbs upwards, well above the true right gully. As the second stream becomes smaller, and more open, cross it. A short walk and you are at the top of Harman Pass with its large cairn of rocks. (if you are walking down from Harman Pass, enter the Taipoiti well to its true left to avoid the bluffs and waterfalls).
Whitehorn Pass is obvious on a clear day.
The route should not be attempted in poor visibility.
Harman Pass is a junction point for trampers taking the marked route down Mary Creek to Julia Hut. Be sure you take the marked route to Ariels Tarns; there are no signs!
From Harman Pass, a poled route ascends to the first of Ariels Tarns by sidling on the tussock and rocky shelves well above the small gorge of Mary Creek. Pass the tarns and continue to follow the poled route past a small rock hump and onto piles of rock before reaching the Whitehorn icefield. In recent years the icefield has been melting away completely by mid-February. This can expose considerable amounts of loose rock, and large unstable boulders – extreme care is required negotiating this section and can be very slow going. If the icefield is present, it may have crevasses, and moulins (deep water sinkholes); ice-axes and crampons are recommended. Avoid walking on the first 100 metres of ice by using the rocky edges to bypass the weak and shallow ice above the creek. Near the top of the Whitehorn Pass, head right to reach a cairn and marker on the saddle.
The steep drop-off into Cronin Stream from Whitehorn Pass is prone to avalanches.
A worn route zigzags down the screes from the true left of the pass – this is the best route down through the bluffed flanks of the pass. Take care not to dislodge loose rocks onto those below you. Once near the valley floor, travel along the true left of upper Cronin Stream. Terraces may offer better travel. Lower down find a suitable place to cross to the true right.
Just before the stream drops into a deep gorge, look for orange markers (part way up the scree slope edge) or a large cairn on a large rock at the bottom of the scree slope. Sidle across the scree at the level of the cairned rock to pick up the worn trail to the hut. Poles and cairns mark the ground trail. It crosses a side creek and scrubby spur before dropping onto a boggy grass terrace with small tarns. Skirt the terrace to the left and drop towards the confluence of Cronin Stream and Wilberforce River. By going around the tarns you avoid damaging the delicate bog vegetation.
A short steep track descends off the terrace to the hut (6 bunks). The Canterbury Mountaineering Club built the hut in memory of James Park and John Morpeth who died while tramping from Lake Kaniere to the Wilberforce Valley in January 1929. Visit the cmc.net.nz to pay your hut fees.
Park Morpeth Hut to Harman Hut (5 hours one way)
This is the steepest part of the Three Passes trip. From Park Morpeth hut walk up the true left of the Wilberforce River. A landslide may force you to cross the Wilberforce early, however the better crossing is where it joins with Hall Creek opposite Clough Memorial. Start up the zigzag track towards Browning Pass/Noti Raureka. The zigzags were part of a track started in the 1860s. John Pascoe warned in his 1938 route guide "it is inexpedient to follow the track to its illogical conclusion in the bluffs near the Hamer Falls, lest you join the shades of the miners who built the track." From the top of the marked zigzag, before it disappears into the bluffs, climb the obvious scree. In summer there is a worn trail visible. Just before you reach the summit the scree narrows, and the climb is at its steepest. You can either continue carefully up the rock and tussock to the left of the scree or climb to the centre of the scree. If there is snow in this section (winter and early spring) it is essential that all members of the party can self-arrest with ice-axes! A cornice at the top or ice conditions can dramatically increase this section’s difficulty. Once on the pass relax, the steepest section is over.
For those attempting the trip from west to east – the eastern face of the Browning Pass/Noti Raureka is very steep. The route down is not well defined. Extreme care must be taken when descending.
From the pass a well-formed track runs round the west side of Lake Browning/Whakarewa and over gentle boggy uplands.
A poled route descends into the Arahura River. Look for the track on the true right of Arahura River, then look for a good place to cross the river to reach it. It is important to find the right crossing to the true right of the Arahura because further downstream there are high waterfalls, bluffs, and thick scrub on the true left bank.
Once you cross the river, sidle along the track. There are three avalanche chutes to cross, so take care in winter to early summer. The track ends at a side creek with steep gravel banks, close to the Arahura. Drop to the riverbed. Travel down the river on whichever side is easiest (generally the true left). Look for a large cairn on the true left twenty metres downstream of a large rocky side-stream. From here continue downstream for 100 metres (the track is marked by cairns). When you get to a small open-side stream, follow it upstream for 100 metres to pick up the wide grassy track. Do not miss this turn off. Harman Hut (6 bunks) is twenty minutes away.
Harman Hut to Mudflats Hut (3-4 hours one way)
Note: the Styx River route, described later, can only be attempted in very low water conditions. Much of the track was washed away in floods and it is now necessary to go via Mid Styx Hut and Tyndall Creek – it can be very slow going.
From Harman Hut drop through the bush to the swing bridge and follow the old benched track high above the Arahura River. The signposted turn off to Styx Saddle is met after 1.5 - 2 hours, continue following the benched Arahura River track until it ends at an un-named creek, immediately upstream of Snowball Creek, follow the un-named creek down until rejoining the track on the true left bank about 150 metres before the Arahura River. From here the track drops gradually through the bush to the riverbed and then follows this for a short distance before climbing onto a low terrace to reach the swing bridge.
Mudflats Hut (6 bunks) can be seen on a high terrace on the true right of the Arahura River and is reached by crossing the swing bridge.
Winter Conditions
In winter, the track from Styx Saddle to Mudflats Hut crosses several deep guts which can become avalanche chutes. Extra care is required during heavy snow conditions.
Mudflats Hut to Lower Arahura Hut (4.5-5 hours one way)
From Mudflats Hut cross the swing bridge to the true left of the Arahura River and continue following the track steeply uphill before crossing Visitor Creek. From here the benched track follows a contour high above the Arahura River. Follow this formed track (with some detours around slips and washouts) down the true left of the valley, continuing past the turn off to Newton Creek Hut.
Above the lower Arahura Hut the track gradually descends from its high contour before dropping into an unnamed creek and emerging onto a short section of track closer to river level. Follow this to the hut (6 bunks), ignoring a swing bridge which is passed on the way.
Lower Arahura Hut to Milltown Road (2.5-3.5 hours one way)
From Lower Arahura Hut to the road end is a mixture of track and riverbed travel. You will need to negotiate several washed out streams between the hut and the swing bridge at The Cesspool. Once reached, cross this bridge to the true right bank of the Arahura River and follow the old logging road and river flats through private farmland before reaching the public road near the Milltown Bridge.
This road leads to Lake Kaniere (11km) and then onto Hokitika which is 26km away.
Alternative Route: Styx Saddle to Grassy Flat Hut (1.5-2 hours one way)
From the signposted turn-off to Styx saddle and Grassy Flat Hut in the upper Arahura Valley, follow the marked track across the boggy Styx Saddle. Once across the saddle, the track begins again at the bush edge following the true right of the Styx River. The track is wet and boggy, with damp mosses and lichen on the rocks. Look for the impressive, twisted rata trees.
Cross the river about 5 minutes after the track emerges from the bush onto Grassy Flats. The hut (10 bunks) is in the middle of the flats on the true left of the Styx River.
Grassy Flat Hut to Mid-Styx Hut (1.5 hours one way)
From Grassy Flat Hut head downstream and re-cross the Styx River. The track begins on the true right just below the prominent toetoe flat (toetoe is a tall native grass with long feathery leaves).
Head downstream on the true right for about 1 hour. A sign indicates the route to the river and to Mid Styx. The river must be crossed to pick up this route on the true left, however due to the constantly changing nature of the river, the better crossing may be 100 – 200 metres up or downstream of the sign. Note: the track on the true right descending the Styx River has been destroyed by floods.
Depending on the river crossing point, it may be necessary to cross a large side creek to pick up the route to Mid Styx Hut.
The route climbs steeply to a terrace and after 30 minutes you will arrive at the hut (4 bunks).
Mid-Styx Hut to Lake Kaniere Road (3-5 hours one way)
From Mid-Styx the route continues along the terrace for about 30 minutes before steeply dropping into Tyndall Creek. This descent is exposed in places. Once in Tyndall Creek, cross to the true left and travel for just over a kilometre to the Styx River.
The route then travels downstream on the true left of the Styx River. The Styx is crossed again to an old farm track that leads to the car park at Lake Kaniere Road.
Useful Information
- The Whitehorn ice-field collapsed completely in 2019, creating mounds of very unstable rock to traverse. The ice-field has continued to collapse and disappear since. Great care is required negotiating this section whether there is ice present or not!
- Flooding in the Styx River destroyed substantial amounts of track between Grassy Flat hut and the road bridge. This route can now only be attempted if the Styx River is running at low flows, and generally requires a detour via Mid-Styx hut and Tyndall Creek, with several additional river crossings. It is recommended to descend the Arahura River.
This route passes through extensive areas of active avalanche terrain in winter/spring. The terms "true-left & right" are used in this description, they refer to side of valley always looking downstream or down hill.
Klondyke Corner to Carrington Hut (4-6 hours one way)
Visit Carrington Hut Route
Carrington Hut – Park Morpeth Hut (9-10 hours one way)
From Carrington hut follow the signposted and marked route towards Harman Pass. After about 700m the track moves out onto the riverflats of the White River. Continue up river on the true-right. At some very large boulders in the river consider looking for a safe crossing to the true-left - you may need to explore the river for some distance to find a viable crossing (the Clough Cableway shown on some maps no longer exists!).
Once across the river continue upstream to the first of two channels of the Taipoiti River, follow this channel upstream (there is a large orange triangle on the true-right riverbank). If there is snow up the Taipoiti, the route will be difficult. During winter and spring, avalanches can funnel into the gorge over the cliffs. In early summer large, unstable ice sheets can block the central gorge area. Be aware that receding ice can leave large, dangerous, balancing boulders in the riverbed.
Climb and scramble up through the steep gorge, crossing from side to side, where necessary. At the top of the gorge, waterfalls tumble over impassable cliffs. Continue past these waterfalls. The poled route to Harman Pass starts here, beside a small stream.
Once out of the Taipoiti gorge you can see the main Taipoiti branches into two streams, each running down a deep gully. A well-worn cairned and poled trail crosses the true left branch relatively soon, the climbs upwards, well above the true right gully. As the second stream becomes smaller, and more open, cross it. A short walk and you are at the top of Harman Pass with its large cairn of rocks. (if you are walking down from Harman Pass, enter the Taipoiti well to its true left to avoid the bluffs and waterfalls).
Whitehorn Pass is obvious on a clear day.
The route should not be attempted in poor visibility.
Harman Pass is a junction point for trampers taking the marked route down Mary Creek to Julia Hut. Be sure you take the marked route to Ariels Tarns; there are no signs!
From Harman Pass, a poled route ascends to the first of Ariels Tarns by sidling on the tussock and rocky shelves well above the small gorge of Mary Creek. Pass the tarns and continue to follow the poled route past a small rock hump and onto piles of rock before reaching the Whitehorn icefield. In recent years the icefield has been melting away completely by mid-February. This can expose considerable amounts of loose rock, and large unstable boulders – extreme care is required negotiating this section and can be very slow going. If the icefield is present, it may have crevasses, and moulins (deep water sinkholes); ice-axes and crampons are recommended. Avoid walking on the first 100 metres of ice by using the rocky edges to bypass the weak and shallow ice above the creek. Near the top of the Whitehorn Pass, head right to reach a cairn and marker on the saddle.
The steep drop-off into Cronin Stream from Whitehorn Pass is prone to avalanches.
A worn route zigzags down the screes from the true left of the pass – this is the best route down through the bluffed flanks of the pass. Take care not to dislodge loose rocks onto those below you. Once near the valley floor, travel along the true left of upper Cronin Stream. Terraces may offer better travel. Lower down find a suitable place to cross to the true right.
Just before the stream drops into a deep gorge, look for orange markers (part way up the scree slope edge) or a large cairn on a large rock at the bottom of the scree slope. Sidle across the scree at the level of the cairned rock to pick up the worn trail to the hut. Poles and cairns mark the ground trail. It crosses a side creek and scrubby spur before dropping onto a boggy grass terrace with small tarns. Skirt the terrace to the left and drop towards the confluence of Cronin Stream and Wilberforce River. By going around the tarns you avoid damaging the delicate bog vegetation.
A short steep track descends off the terrace to the hut (6 bunks). The Canterbury Mountaineering Club built the hut in memory of James Park and John Morpeth who died while tramping from Lake Kaniere to the Wilberforce Valley in January 1929. Visit the cmc.net.nz to pay your hut fees.
Park Morpeth Hut to Harman Hut (5 hours one way)
This is the steepest part of the Three Passes trip. From Park Morpeth hut walk up the true left of the Wilberforce River. A landslide may force you to cross the Wilberforce early, however the better crossing is where it joins with Hall Creek opposite Clough Memorial. Start up the zigzag track towards Browning Pass/Noti Raureka. The zigzags were part of a track started in the 1860s. John Pascoe warned in his 1938 route guide "it is inexpedient to follow the track to its illogical conclusion in the bluffs near the Hamer Falls, lest you join the shades of the miners who built the track." From the top of the marked zigzag, before it disappears into the bluffs, climb the obvious scree. In summer there is a worn trail visible. Just before you reach the summit the scree narrows, and the climb is at its steepest. You can either continue carefully up the rock and tussock to the left of the scree or climb to the centre of the scree. If there is snow in this section (winter and early spring) it is essential that all members of the party can self-arrest with ice-axes! A cornice at the top or ice conditions can dramatically increase this section’s difficulty. Once on the pass relax, the steepest section is over.
For those attempting the trip from west to east – the eastern face of the Browning Pass/Noti Raureka is very steep. The route down is not well defined. Extreme care must be taken when descending.
From the pass a well-formed track runs round the west side of Lake Browning/Whakarewa and over gentle boggy uplands.
A poled route descends into the Arahura River. Look for the track on the true right of Arahura River, then look for a good place to cross the river to reach it. It is important to find the right crossing to the true right of the Arahura because further downstream there are high waterfalls, bluffs, and thick scrub on the true left bank.
Once you cross the river, sidle along the track. There are three avalanche chutes to cross, so take care in winter to early summer. The track ends at a side creek with steep gravel banks, close to the Arahura. Drop to the riverbed. Travel down the river on whichever side is easiest (generally the true left). Look for a large cairn on the true left twenty metres downstream of a large rocky side-stream. From here continue downstream for 100 metres (the track is marked by cairns). When you get to a small open-side stream, follow it upstream for 100 metres to pick up the wide grassy track. Do not miss this turn off. Harman Hut (6 bunks) is twenty minutes away.
Harman Hut to Mudflats Hut (3-4 hours one way)
Note: the Styx River route, described later, can only be attempted in very low water conditions. Much of the track was washed away in floods and it is now necessary to go via Mid Styx Hut and Tyndall Creek – it can be very slow going.
From Harman Hut drop through the bush to the swing bridge and follow the old benched track high above the Arahura River. The signposted turn off to Styx Saddle is met after 1.5 - 2 hours, continue following the benched Arahura River track until it ends at an un-named creek, immediately upstream of Snowball Creek, follow the un-named creek down until rejoining the track on the true left bank about 150 metres before the Arahura River. From here the track drops gradually through the bush to the riverbed and then follows this for a short distance before climbing onto a low terrace to reach the swing bridge.
Mudflats Hut (6 bunks) can be seen on a high terrace on the true right of the Arahura River and is reached by crossing the swing bridge.
Winter Conditions
In winter, the track from Styx Saddle to Mudflats Hut crosses several deep guts which can become avalanche chutes. Extra care is required during heavy snow conditions.
Mudflats Hut to Lower Arahura Hut (4.5-5 hours one way)
From Mudflats Hut cross the swing bridge to the true left of the Arahura River and continue following the track steeply uphill before crossing Visitor Creek. From here the benched track follows a contour high above the Arahura River. Follow this formed track (with some detours around slips and washouts) down the true left of the valley, continuing past the turn off to Newton Creek Hut.
Above the lower Arahura Hut the track gradually descends from its high contour before dropping into an unnamed creek and emerging onto a short section of track closer to river level. Follow this to the hut (6 bunks), ignoring a swing bridge which is passed on the way.
Lower Arahura Hut to Milltown Road (2.5-3.5 hours one way)
From Lower Arahura Hut to the road end is a mixture of track and riverbed travel. You will need to negotiate several washed out streams between the hut and the swing bridge at The Cesspool. Once reached, cross this bridge to the true right bank of the Arahura River and follow the old logging road and river flats through private farmland before reaching the public road near the Milltown Bridge.
This road leads to Lake Kaniere (11km) and then onto Hokitika which is 26km away.
Alternative Route: Styx Saddle to Grassy Flat Hut (1.5-2 hours one way)
From the signposted turn-off to Styx saddle and Grassy Flat Hut in the upper Arahura Valley, follow the marked track across the boggy Styx Saddle. Once across the saddle, the track begins again at the bush edge following the true right of the Styx River. The track is wet and boggy, with damp mosses and lichen on the rocks. Look for the impressive, twisted rata trees.
Cross the river about 5 minutes after the track emerges from the bush onto Grassy Flats. The hut (10 bunks) is in the middle of the flats on the true left of the Styx River.
Grassy Flat Hut to Mid-Styx Hut (1.5 hours one way)
From Grassy Flat Hut head downstream and re-cross the Styx River. The track begins on the true right just below the prominent toetoe flat (toetoe is a tall native grass with long feathery leaves).
Head downstream on the true right for about 1 hour. A sign indicates the route to the river and to Mid Styx. The river must be crossed to pick up this route on the true left, however due to the constantly changing nature of the river, the better crossing may be 100 – 200 metres up or downstream of the sign. Note: the track on the true right descending the Styx River has been destroyed by floods.
Depending on the river crossing point, it may be necessary to cross a large side creek to pick up the route to Mid Styx Hut.
The route climbs steeply to a terrace and after 30 minutes you will arrive at the hut (4 bunks).
Mid-Styx Hut to Lake Kaniere Road (3-5 hours one way)
From Mid-Styx the route continues along the terrace for about 30 minutes before steeply dropping into Tyndall Creek. This descent is exposed in places. Once in Tyndall Creek, cross to the true left and travel for just over a kilometre to the Styx River.
The route then travels downstream on the true left of the Styx River. The Styx is crossed again to an old farm track that leads to the car park at Lake Kaniere Road.
Useful Information
- Hokitika Taxis: Ph. 03 755 5075
- Styx River Level: West Coast Regional Council