Arthur's Pass Region Ascents Logbook

Ascents in Arthur's Pass National Park have not been well documented over the years, and the Park Headquarters has never maintained an ascents log. So there is at least some form of ascents record kept for the park I provide this electronic log here. You are quite welcome to enter any historical ascents you have made in the park as well as recent ascents.

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If you think you have established a new route please email me at with the details, please include as much route detail as possible (including estimated alpine and/or rock grades), include a marked up photograph if possible.

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Date Mountain Route Party
28/01/2018Mt Franklin
Oats/Franklin ridgeJacob DownieRoss liNice and sunny other than a quick thunderstorm while we wear near the summit. A cave provided great shelter as we waited for it to pass. No snow on any of the ridge except a small pocket near Oates.
27/01/2018Mt Oates
South ridge from Edwards hut and Williams saddleJacob DownieRoss liHot conditions. Dirty tarns on the ridge and no other water till lake Mavis. Load up in a creek heading up to the saddle. Wonderful scramble on good rock. Options for descent to lake Mavis. We took a scree couloir between low/high peak to the West face then sidled around to a notch in the West ridge. From here there was a well used scree slope down to the lake.
21/01/2018Cow Peak
New Route on buttress left of "Greet the Sacred Cow"Gibbins-SowmanBen Sowman, Jasmine Gibbins, Latham Gibbins & Ben GibbinsWe climbed a new rock route on Cow Peak at the head of the Anti-Crow River. We climbed the rock buttress left of the already established route "Greet the Sacred Cow". We started at the hoof of the buttress and climbed to a notch where it becomes steeper. From there we traversed left and scrambled to the summit. The route tops out about 50 meters south of the small, unnamed peak between Cow Peak and Gizeh Col. Crux grade about 12 (2+). We named the route "Gibbins-Sowman"
27/12/2017One Shot Hill
Paratu Stream then scree slide into Paratu StreamPVTDaryll & Barbara ThomsonLess scrub bashing than we expected.
02/12/2017Mt Philistine
Philistine Bluffs and eastern slopesPVTMark BuckleySoft snow from about 1600 metres
01/12/2017Mt ByrneFrom Harper Pass & ridge to the south towards Pt 1725 then west over open tops to Mt ByrnePVTDaryll & Barbara ThomsonVery straight forward route except for the alpine scrub up from Harper Pass
14/11/2017Mt Row
Via Cherrywood Creek & then trees on true left of creek to Pt 1655 and then along the ridge to Mt RowDaryll ThomsonBarbara ThomsonCan be difficult to exit from Cherrywood Creek. Best to stay in the trees from the first major fork in Cherrywood Creek
10/11/2017Mt Rolleston - Low Peak
Otira Slide - Ski descentPVTColin Kinison
Jason Watson
Really nice conditions with some sticky newish snow in places. 15cm unreactive slab on the upper slope.
29/10/2017Mt Stewart
North Face from Crow RiverPVTSarah Hamilton, Fraser Monteith & Lorraine JohnsBest not to rely on the guidebook information. About 85m from the stream draining from the basins below Guinevere, walk 200 vertical metres up to a bluff. Do not go to the climber's right as the guidebook suggests you can. It is doable but you will probably not want to go back down this way (and you may not enjoy going up it either). Go to the climber's left; however, do not take the route drawn in the guidebook (going most of the way up the scree gut), this would only lead to tears. At the 1240m contour there is a narrow wooded spur (just before you get to this thin spur, there is a wide scree gully with bluffs, and before this gully it is mainly trees. Go up this spur ... it's easy and it leads to easy ground. Also do not expect to climb the north-east ridge ... it is best to drop onto the north face and climb up to the east ridge just before it reaches the summit. A nice day out.
28/10/2017Mt Lancelot
Crow Couloir RoutePVTSarah Hamilton, Fraser Monteith & Lorraine JohnsThis is a nice route that is not mentioned in the guidebook. Essentially aim for the north ridge, and a few hundred metres down from the summit you will see a big snow slope (climber's left) leading toward the summit ridge (you can't miss it). A nice 1+ in good snow conditions ... very firm snow would be closer to a 2 with the slope being a uniform steepness. In summer this route might potentially be cut off ... in late spring we noticed two bridged crevasses. We were told the north ridge was also fine in snow (contrary to the information in the guidebook) but the couloir was in great condition so we went up and down it.
04/08/2017Avalanche Peak
Rome ridge to Avalanche peakStuart WhiteElliot MarshallQuality Mountain Day!

Coral track onto Rome ridge, then traversed along ridge to avalanche peak before descending Scott's track.

Blue bird day, minimal wind, with shin deep snow. Crampons from bushline to bushline.
19/07/2017Avalanche Peak
Rome ridge to Avalanche Peak ridge traverseAndy Muirhead-SmithAlex BewickCoral track > Rome ridge > 1825m > ridge traverse to Avalanche Peak > Scotts track

Atmospheric weather
Knee to thigh deep crust, bit of a slog but fantastic views intermittently
Observed large slab avalanche on north side of Rome ridge
23/06/2017Mt Alexander
Camp Creek RouteYTBBen Williams and Hamish CoatsSpent one night in the camp creek hut then headed for the summit early the next morning. Once off of the ridge, we took the scree slope on the southwest side of the main peak. We walked horizontally along it until we found a crack we could shoot up to the top. Made it to the summit around 10:00am spent around 30 minutes at the top and made it back down to the road around 4:00pm after some lunch back at the hut.
21/04/2017Mt Armstrong
From Waimak colPVTClaire healing, Jono Calder , zane snookSnow v hard, primo day out
25/02/2017Mt Temple
Central ButtressPVTRoi Gapuzan & Ben GibbinsPleasant day out climbing. Six long pitches with the last two just scrambling. Six hours twenty minutes to the summit of Mt Temple

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