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Arthur's Pass Region Ascents Logbook


Ascents in Arthur's Pass National Park have not been well documented over the years, and the Park Headquarters has never maintained an ascents log. So there is at least some form of ascents record kept for the park I provide this electronic log here. You are quite welcome to enter any historical ascents you have made in the park as well as recent ascents.

Did you get a "Conditions Photograph" that could be posted to this website? Email it to graemek@xtra.co.nz (minimum size = 800 pixels wide).

If you think you have established a new route please email me at graemek@xtra.co.nz with the details, please include as much route detail as possible (including estimated alpine and/or rock grades), include a marked up photograph if possible.

PLEASE NOTE: This database is now a "live" fully online version, updates will now show immediately. If you make an error please email me at graemek@xtra.co.nz with the corrections.

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MOST RECENT ASCENTS
Date Mountain Route Party
Name
Party
Members
Notes
25/02/2017Mt Temple
Central ButtressPVTRoi Gapuzan & Ben GibbinsPleasant day out climbing. Six long pitches with the last two just scrambling. Six hours twenty minutes to the summit of Mt Temple
20/02/2017Mt Rolleston - Otira Face (High Peak)
Central DirectPVTRyan Leong, Mike LundinAccess gully still had large balanced block of snow to get around and under. Tricky nav on decent in whiteout, hit a few dead ends so ended up abseiling onto east crow gl from a notch below low peak and rolling this around onto the ridge that links avalanche peak and rome ridge. Straight forward from there.
10/01/2017Mt Rolleston - High Peak
Otira Slide via low peakPVTAnna Brooke & Bob MillerHard snow on Otira Slide in morning and across top of Crow Glacier. Softened on top layer on way down. Bergschrund easy to navigate between middle and high peak. Quite a bit of exposed rotten rock in sections.
30/11/2016Phipps Peak
Phipps Peak W ridge from Temple basin - Temple traversePVTNic Hamilton/Marc DufresneHard snow up the couloir from Temple basin. Mostly dry up the W ridge. Lots of snow on the connecting ridge between Phipps and Phipps-Temple col. Easy going up temple. Softening significantly on the E side of ridge circa 8-9 am.
30/10/2016Phipps Peak
Phipps-Temple TraversePVTConnor Young, Chris HillGood freeze made for solid cramponing up the South Face of Phipps, with some soft snow in wind loaded areas. Plenty of snow left on ridge to Temple making for some interesting mixed down climbing. Another great day in Arthur's Pass
23/10/2016Mt Murchison
White Glacier to North RidgePVTConnor Young, Roi Gapuzan, Ben GibbinsBeautiful clear skies and a good overnight freeze. Excellent cramponing conditions, but deteriorated fast once the sun was out. Can't ask for better weather, conditions, or company.
15/10/2016Mt Rolleston - High Peak
Philistine-Rolleston TraversePVTConnor Young, Roi GapuzanHeavy snows the day prior made this a little more interesting. Hard work postholing through all the new snow, and glad to be off solar aspects by midday when the sun was hitting everything. The slopes got quite active. Fun day out!
03/09/2016Mt Rolleston - High Peak
Philistine-Rolleston TraversePVTHamish Cumming, Caroline BellamyA smorgasbord of snow conditions, lots of postholing. Firm at the top of the slide but knee-thigh deep towards the bottom. A thoroughly enjoyable outing.
30/08/2016The Pyramid
South East RidgePVTJon ColbertA good bush bash, followed by a slog through knee to thigh deep snow. The slab was about 5-10cm deep. Overall a nice day out.
03/07/2016Mt Franklin
South Ridge via Good Luck CreekPVTAlex McCormack, Ben GibbinsGood camp site in Good Luck Creek. No snow until 1700m but then good snow. Lake Anna was frozen. We pitched onto the south ridge. Once on the ridge it was straight forward travel.
24/04/2016Whale CragBellbird. sort of.PVT2Long day to walk in and out and climb.
Picked the easiest looking line which turned out to be very close to but i dont think quite on bellbird.
Classic alpine rock. very fun. lots of potential for more routes up here.
12/02/2016Mount Travers - NLNPSummit Creek routeMartin Martinez1Spaniards are mean after the beech forest. Snowless except for a speck near the top. Good scrambling to steep bolder fields, ridge to false summits, bolder blocks to top. A beautiful peak when viewed from the Travers valley.Spectacular beech forests, Nelson lakes national park is a real treasure.
01/02/2016Mt Rolleston - Low Peak
Otira Valley / Goldney RidgePVTJon Colbert 
31/01/2016Mt Rolleston - High Peak
Philistine - Rolleston traverse. Descend Otira SlidePVTBen Gibbins, Alex MacBeautiful day for climbing. A very long but excellent route. We pitched some of the steeper parts of the ridge and abseiled twice from the summit ridge onto the glacier. Comming down the Otira slide was generally very loose and required a bit of route finding to exit into the valley below
30/01/2016Mt Speight
Lefthand ButtressTeam SleepyJovan Andric & Lorraine JohnsIf the crux grade is 14 then we must have missed the right line ...

We got on a little to the right of the toe, choosing the easiest-looking crack system ... one 25m pitch of marginally protectable (at best) grade 18 later, we moved on to a 50m pitch of a rather chossy nature, marginally protectable again and still harder than grade 14 (angling back left above the toe of the buttress and following the very obvious weakness by this stage - so at least from this point on we assumed we were on the route) ... then finally a 30-40m third pitch which took heaps of gear, but was again harder than grade 14, requiring a lot of bridging to avoid strenuous moves ... the route we took matched up to the guidebook after this, and it was a scramble to the ridge. We did one short abseil off the north ridge to the col, someone had left a good sling.

Link cams, cams and nuts all great on pitch 3 ... pitch one might have taken some smaller C3s and possibly smaller nuts. Pitch 2 was a bit blank.

This route was significantly harder than the central buttress on Temple - we were expecting an equivalent climb! It also turned out to be a long day climb ... we were still walking back down the scree slope access at 3am in the morning. Oh the joy.
 

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